All domestic garlic falls into two distinct sub-species:

1. Hardneck Garlic (subspecies Ophioscorodon)

• Sends up a central stalk (scape) that, if left to mature, is topped with a flowering seed cap where bulbils form.
• Large, easy-peeling cloves with a rich, aromatic flavor (not too spicy).
• Preferred for northern climates; stores 3–6 months.
• Typically 5–11 large cloves clustered around a central woody stem.

2. Softneck Garlic (subspecies Sativum)

• Usually does not produce a scape; easier to grow and more productive.
• More adaptable than hardneck and generally has a spicier flavor.
• Stores up to a year or more under proper conditions.
• Typically 12–20 cloves per bulb (sometimes up to 40), often with small interior cloves.
• Ideal for braiding.

Soil & Culture

Garlic prefers rich, well-drained soil, full sun, ample soil moisture, and a weed-free environment throughout the season.

Planting Times by Zone

• In mild climates (zones 7–10): September through March. Fall planting gives larger, earlier yields.
• In colder climates (zones 3–6): About 6 weeks before the soil freezes (early October to early November).

Quick Planting Calendar Guide

• Zone 3: around September 1
• For each zone higher, add 2 weeks
• Example: Kentucky zone 6 → October 15

Pre-Planting Soak (recommended but optional)

• Night before planting: Soak separated cloves in 1 gallon of water + 1 Tbsp baking soda + 1 Tbsp liquid seaweed or plant food.
• If you have insect problems: Soak cloves in alcohol for a few minutes just before planting.

How to Plant

1. Separate bulbs into individual cloves (keep papery skin on).
2. Plant cloves with the flat scar end down, pointy end up.
3. Depth: 2 inches below soil surface.
4. Spacing: 6″ between cloves, 8″ between rows (add a few extra inches for elephant garlic).
5. Mulch immediately after planting with leaves, straw, or old hay.
6. In spring, top-dress with compost when new leaves appear.
7. Water steadily until just before harvest.

Planting Bulbils

• Plant scar-side down, ½–1″ deep, 2″ apart.
• Mulch once greens appear.
• Harvest next spring/summer when tops die back → get small bulbs or “rounds” to replant next fall.

Planting Elephant Garlic Corms

• Soak overnight or 24 hours.
• To help water penetrate: lightly sandpaper one spot or carefully slit the hard shell.
• Plant 4″ apart, 1–1.5″ deep.
• May take up to 2 months to emerge.
• Easier method: Harvest corms in summer, plant them immediately in a weed-free bed → they emerge in fall naturally.

Scapes

• Hardneck and elephant garlic produce scapes in late spring.
• Snap them off when they form a loop (1–2 months before harvest) to direct energy to bigger bulbs.
• Scapes are delicious! Try this simple pesto: Puree fresh young scapes (remove seed tops and woody parts), add pine nuts or walnuts, Parmesan, salt, and drizzle in olive oil until creamy. Toss with hot pasta.

When & How to Harvest

As day length increases in late spring, leaf growth stops and bulbs form. Reduce watering to avoid mold.

Harvest Timing

• Softneck: when bottom 3 leaves are brown.
• Hardneck: when top 3–5 leaves are brown.
• Never let more than half the plant turn brown for best storage quality.

Harvesting & Curing

• Dig bulbs gently (or pull if soil is loose).
• Hang in a shaded, well-ventilated area (shed or garage) – no direct sun.
• Curing time: – Hardneck: 2–3 weeks – Softneck: 3–4 weeks – Elephant garlic: up to 6 weeks
• Trim stalks ½” above bulb and roots when dry.
• Store in netted bags at 60–70°F. If bulbs shrivel, move to a moister spot.

Elephant Garlic Notes

• Plant at the same time as hardneck (or in a warm February spell in zone 6 for excellent results).
• Stores very well.
• Snap off scapes early (they are usually sterile anyway).

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